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FIGS, ESPALIERS AND OTHER UNUSUAL FRUITS
Hollybrook Orchards offers a broad collection of unusual fruits from North America, Asia and Europe.
Some plants are old heirlooms, like the medlar which was originally introduced to the colonies in the 17th century. There is a beautiful specimen of this tree at the Strawbery Banke settlement in Portsmouth, NH. A few of us are reintroducing this very interesting plant.
Some plants are unusually-formed commonly-known plants, such as the columnar apples, which grow with very short branches, and are quite adaptable to container growing on a patio. Miniature peaches are genetic dwarfs which produce full sized fruit.
FIGS
Black Spanish
Brown Turkey
Celeste
Lattarulla
Negronne
Peters-Honey
Stella
Pruning Figs
Except in Zones 7 and 8, it is best to prune figs to a low-growing bush form with a single trunk base of 8" to 12" from the ground. To produce a bush, cut back aggressively for the first several years. This will make harvesting fruit and wrapping for winter protection easier as the fig matures.
Fruit bearing figs have the potential to bear two separate crops each year. The first is produced on the previous seasons' growth and begins to develop before dormancy. This crop is known as the breba crop. This crop, if fruitful and productive, is lighter that the late summer crop which is produced on the current seasons' growth. Be mindful of this as you prune. Prune by approximately one-half, which will encourage new shoots to develop 8" to 12" above the base or ground level. During winter dormancy the first year, choose a few adequately spaced shoots (three or many as eight) which will serve as leaders and remove all others. These leaders will become large, several inches in diameter, so choose those that will not become overcrowded. Fruit is borne primarily on the current season's growth.
The second year, after the danger of frost has passed in spring, prune for fruit production. Fruit is borne on the current season's growth. Cut back to a bud or branch that faces toward the outside or the tree or shrub. Do not prune to stubs, a practice which could lead to decay. Make a habit of using sharp pruning tools. Remove all dead wood, broken branches or branches that cross each other or rub against one another. Cut out all suckers unless one or more of the leaders needs to be replaced.
Winter Protection
While many fig varieties are susceptible to cold damage, many gardeners successfully grow them out of zone by exercising due care and diligence. When growing zone 7 or zone 6 figs in a zone 5 climate, strictly adhere to these guidelines to be successful. In zone 6, these figs will need some protection but not to the extent listed here. Figs grown in zone 7 and warmer need little if any protection from cold.
When all leaves and fruit are off the fig, sometime around Thanksgiving, selectively prune and tie the plant. Begin by pulling all side branches inward and upward to form a vertical shape. Tie tightly being careful not to break any branches, using a strong rope of natural fibers. Let the plant remain like this for several weeks.
On a clear and dry day in early December, when it has not rained for several days, so that the rope is completely dry, wrap the figs making sure to finish the same day you start. First, wrap the tree with burlap from top to bottom covering completely. Use pins or nails to hold the burlap in place. Then wrap with heavy brown paper and tie in place. The next step is cardboard around the bottom half of the shrub or tree. Use tar paper as an outer layer, placing it in shingle style so that water runs down the tar paper and does not seep through any cracks. Tie the tar paper in place. Next mound soil around the base to further insulate the fig from cold air. At this point you can place a pail over the top to prevent rainwater from getting inside. DO NOT USE PLASTIC WRAPS. These can cause condensation on the interior which could freeze and damage the branches.
In spring, after danger of frost has passed, choose a cloudy day to unwrap your fig. The earlier this is done, the greater the chance for fruit to develop, mature and ripen properly. If wrappings are removed too early there is a danger of damage by a spring frost. For this reason, be prepared for spring frost by having a light cover, large enough to cover the fig, on hand for temporary protection.
ESPALIER FRUIT TREES
Pruning and shaping espalier trees is very much a matter of personal preference. Nonetheless, it is important to keep in mind that pruning stimulates growth. Train the espalier to the structural form you desire such as a trellis, fence or wall. If you have purchased the tree already espaliered, keep it trained in the form which has already been established.
Throughout the growing season, carefully remove developing buds that do not conform to the espalier design. Keeping vertical shoots pruned throughout the season will help encourage fruiting spurs to develop. The remaining buds will gradually grow into branches. Carefully bind these to the espalier guides or frames. Prune or remove any growth that is not consistent with the overall desired shape. Be careful not to remove all fruit buds when pruning. Thin fruit if the weight poses problems with structural integrity.
OTHER FRUIT TREES